Wednesday, July 4, 2018

DENALI

"DENALI" the word is synonymous with Alaska. The highest mountain in North America at 20,310' and the tallest in the world. The difference being how high above its base does it rise. Denali rises about 18,000' above its base. Mt. Everest rises "only" 12,000' above its base.

It is so tall that it creates its own weather which shrouds it in clouds. Which means that about 60% of the visitors to Denali National Park do not see the summit.

Our weather here has been exceptional. ALL the guide books say to bring rain gear because it rains all summer long and most activities are "rain or shine". We have had warm sunny days and they continue as we leave Anchorage for our first tour around the state.

First stop is Talkeetna, about 14 miles off our direct route to Denali. It has a reputation as a quirky "out of the way" little Alaskan town. But since being "discovered" 20 years ago, it has become a intentionally quirky tourist trap.  We walked the length of the town in about 20 minutes.









Ate delicious caribou burgers and headed to Denali.





Serge had told Kris that we MUST stop at Wal-Mike's. I am learning that most of Alaska falls into the category of "Neither words nor pictures can adequately describe it." Wal-Mike's definitely fits in that category. Besides being the Trapper Creek Post Office it is a hardware/convenience/grocery/propane/tool/tire/auto parts/souvenir/I'm sure I've missed several categories/ store.



AND a world famous outhouse.





BE SURE to click on these pictures so you can see them enlarged to read all the signs.






I will probably say this too much. But there is NO WAY to do justice to the SCALE of things in Alaska. We stopped several times on the Parks Highway but we could have stopped every mile to take pictures like these.




 The high peaks are about 6000' high and 40 miles away.

Our original plans had been to stay at a remote (12 miles from the highway) dry cabin and take a monster truck tour of part of Denali that is not open to the public. Possible because the tour operators, Denali Sightseeing Safaris have had a contract for 20 years with a mining company to use the mine haul roads to enter the park. The week before we left, Angel called and said that she had to cancel her entire season, cabin rentals and tours. Spring was very late this year. The mining company got impatient and started operations much earlier than they should have. Their haul trucks are MUCH bigger than Angel's and they made the roads impassable to the monster trucks.

SO, in spite of all the advice to make reservations MONTHS in advance, which I had done, I was now trying to find a place to stay and book a regular tourist tour of Denali a few days before our arrival.  And, as usual, somebody cancelled so I was able to book a cabin at The Crow's Nest right across the highway from "Glitter Gulch", which is the tacky touristy area that has grown up near the entrance to Denali National Park. BUT - stuck to the side of the mountain above all the noise and nonsense.

Views from our porch. You can see "Glitter Gulch" below us.






Building on Permafrost presents unique "settling" challenges. Our cabin listed about 15 % toward the front. Salmon Bake, the restaurant we enjoyed was even more uneven. We asked one of the assistant managers and he said, "I hear the phrase, 'grandfathered' a lot and I NEVER hear the phrase, 'building inspector.'"










Tomorrow we  have an early morning departure on a tour bus. Denali does not allow private vehicles into the interior of the park. We will be taking the "short tour" to the Eielson Visitor's Center. It's only 4 hours and 64 miles one way. The longer tour is 6 hours one way which doesn't allow much time for stopping or spending time at the visitors centers.

So again, in spite of nothing going as we planned, everything is good.

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