Saturday, June 24, 2017

THIRD AND LAST DAY IN NEWPORT - FOR THIS TRIP AT LEAST.

We chose to visit the Isaac Bell House and had another major in-between. Everything that the Preservation Society of Newport had shown us up to this point was extremely well organized, easy to tour and just all around "well done."

BUT - the last three houses we wanted to see did not have audio tours. They had scheduled tours with docents. They were all about one hour tours and they all started every hour ON THE HOUR. So if you saw one at 10:00am, you wouldn't get out in time to walk the short distance to the next one to be there by 11:00. Cool you heels for an hour doing "something". We asked "Why not have one "on the hour" and one "on the half hour." ?  Everybody said, "Please tell management that. we hear it every day."

By the time we found parking, we got to the Bell House at 5 minutes after 10. The receptionist said, "Welcome. The next tour is at 11." And that was when she explained that we couldn't do any of the others on that block either.

Tinkerbell Jerusalem In-Between. A docent came into the office and said, "Hi. Are you here to take a tour." Receptionist said, "Yes. I just explained to them that the next tour is at 11."  The wonderful docent said, "Oh, I always give an extra 10 minutes for late comers and since they're the only ones for 10 o'clock I'll just take them now,"

YEAH. But, as usual, it gets better. The house was designed by Stanford White, the most famous architect of the late 1800's. I believe it is safe to say that this docent had a school girl crush on Stanford White. When I told her that I had owned a house in Salem, VA that was attributed to White, we became her favorite tourists of the year. The "hour" tour ended up being over an hour and a half.

This was Carol's favorite house of the entire group. Not anything like the opulence and extravagance of the others. But it felt like a home. When we told the docent that she said, "This is what normal rich people lived like during this time." Mr. Bell gave White free rein do "do his thing" and the result is one of the finest examples of the Shingle Style in the country.






Pictures inside were a challenge because there was little light and flash was not allowed. But Carol got several worth sharing.


White was inspired by everything from the Arts and Crafts movement to Japanese influence.




The few of my readers who were ever in my Main Street will see the similarities to this room and my living room and hall. From the Newport Preservation website - "Oversize doorways connect the living hall to the other rooms, allowing the first floor to function in two ways: as individual rooms or as one large entertaining space. This idea of free-flowing interior space, taken from Japanese architecture, was revolutionary for America in 1883.



All of the "windows" you see here are actually doors to allow on to enjoy the ocean breezes.


Two of the upstairs bedrooms.



One of the kid's rooms.


More incredible woodwork.





This was one of the earliest and most interesting of the McKim, Mead and White residents. It influenced American architecture for decades.

Our second house was Chepstow. 

It was named by the second owner, Mrs. Emily Morris Gallatin in commemoration of her family's Welsh origin and their role in the English civil war in 1648 brothers Lewis, William and Richard Morris, officers in Cromwell's Parliamentary Army took part in the siege of Chepstow Castle. History has it that Lewis ordered the burning of the castle after which it surrendered. In 1660, with the restoration of the monarchy, the brothers deemed it wise to not remain in England and after a stay in Barbados, emigrated to New Amsterdam. The Morris family was very influential in colonial and Revolutionary times.




Although is was an early "cottage", built in 1860, its fascination to us was that it was lived in by the  second owner, Mrs. Gallatin and her husband until the house and all its contents were bequeathed to the Preservation Society in 1986. They purchased the house in 1911 and their original furnishings are there. But so is a black and white TV. It was most interesting to see all of the "stuff" Mrs. Morris Gallatin collected over 70 years.


Like the Bell house, this was a home, not just a theatrical showpiece. This elegant yet simple staircase is the perfect example.


"Clutter" or "full of memories". It's all in the eye of the beholder. Mrs. Gallatin was a talented artist and all of the needlepoint decorations and furniture cushions are her work. Click on the pictures to see more detail.



What a time capsule. Again, all of the furniture in this room is upholstered in needlepoint created by Mrs. Gallatin.



Here's that TV set. Along with more needlepoint upholstery.




This tour didn't run quite as long as anticipated so, in spite of the Society's best efforts, we were able to see the three houses back to back.

Last on our list was Kingscote. Considered the very best example of the Gothic Revival style house still standing in America. Although it is a wooden house, it was painted with gray paint with sand mixed in to give it the appearance of stone.






This was the first of the outrageously opulent "cottages" in Newport, built in 1839 by George Noble Jones, a wealthy Florida plantation owner. Although his plantations (yes, he had TWO ) were in FL, he lived in Savannah in the winter and Newport in the summer. At the start of the Civil War, he left RI and never returned. The house was sold to in 1864 to the King family, whose wealth came from the China Trade.

Like Chepstow, the house was occupied for a very long time by one family. William Henry King's descendants lived in the house until 1972 when they donated it to the Preservation Society, along with most of its contents circa 1880. In 1880 the house was enlarged by, here he is again, Stanford White.


Entrance Hall.

Tiffany windows.


Dining Room designed by Stanford White. Suspended cork ceiling, intricate woodwork and Tiffany opalescent glass bricks - the first time glass bricks were used in an American residence.




"Compromise" in White's usual fascination with open floor plans. This beautiful wooden screen dining room wall is easily removed to open hall and opposite room to the dining room.


Sitting Room with  marble fireplace and huge bay window behind the curtain.


Master Bedroom

Playroom


Carol always proofreads my posts. I remembered this being a library. She reminded me that it was just a corner of a staircase landing. A large landing.



After a late picnic lunch at Ft. Adams Park we toured the Fort.





 And so we finish our tour of Newport. Except we haven't. There are several more houses that are not part of the Preservation Society of Newport County. We must move on as we have reservations at campgrounds waiting but we will return on another trip. There is so much more to see and do.






Wednesday, June 21, 2017

OUR SECOND DAY IN NEWPORT, RI

Rosecliff - Oh Dear, NEW money is invading Newport, whatever shall we do ?

Commissioned by Nevada silver heiress Theresa Fair Oelrichs in 1899, architect Stanford White modeled Rosecliff after the Grand Trianon, the garden retreat of French kings at Versailles. After the house was completed in 1902, at a reported cost of $2.5 million, Mrs. Oelrichs hosted fabulous entertainments here, including a fairy tale dinner and a party featuring famed magician Harry Houdini.  


I don't know how the Vanderbilts responded, but the "new money" showed it could spend lavishly too.




The ladies would arrive and go straight upstairs to leave their wraps and "freshen up" so they could make a grand entrance down this staircase. The steps are not nearly as high as usual so they would have no trouble with their long gowns.


 Looking from the foot of the stairs toward the front door.


Fireplace in sitting room.


 Ceiling detail.


The 40' by 80' Ballroom. Seen in "The Great Gatsby", "True Lies" and "27 Dresses".




Another spectacular fireplace, this time in the Dining Room.


Outside is well decorated as well.


The Mistress's Bedroom.


The lawn goes all the way to the Cliff Walk.


And when you walk down there, you look back at this.


The house stayed in the family until 1941. Eventually it was purchased by Mr & Mrs J. Edgar Monroe of New Orleans in 1947. In 1971 they donated the house, all its furnishings and a $2,000,000 maintenance endowment to the Preservation Society of Newport County.



We continued to The Elms, the most magnificent "cottage" not built by a Vanderbilt. But the money came from the Vanderbilts.






Mr. and Mrs. Edward Julius Berwind weren't even New Yorkers. They were from Philadelphia. He had made his fortune in the coal mining business. His primary customer was Commodore Vanderbilt and his railroads.

The house was completed in 1901 at a cost of $1,400,000.00 . The interiors were designed and built in France, dismantled, shipped, and reassembled in Newport.


Main Stairway.



Entry Hall.

Tapestry in the Entry Hall.


Ladies Parlor.

Ceiling in Ladies Parlor.


Ballroom.


Dining Room.





Linen Closet.

Upstairs part of the two story Butler's Pantry. The cabinets hold several sets of Chinese porcelain dishes.


Kitchen.

 The brochure says the self guided tour is an hour to an hour and a half long. BUT if you have extra time, there is additional information available on the CD. We listened to all of it AND took a separate tour, "Servant Life Tour" so we spent over three hours here.

The third house was the Hunter House. This is not one of the grand cottages, but a merchant's home built more than 100 years before the cottages. The earliest part of the house was built between 1748 and 1754. Additions and changes were made by the second owner, starting in 1756. Both of the first two owners were deputy governors of the colony. It was the only house in which we were not allowed to take pictures. The house was lit with period lighting so flash would have been necessary because the house is quite dark.








The furnishings are from the period of the second owner, including incredible Townsend-Goddard family furniture and a portrait by Gilbert Stuart.

This is the only house of the Preservation Society group that does not have parking. Our Big Red Truck was already feeling claustrophobic on the narrow colonial streets in this section of town. And we could not find a parking place. Street parking was placarded for residents only. So I parked directly in front of the house while Carol went in to ask. And she was told, "Right where you are is fine, resident parking doesn't start until 6pm."

Back to the Airstream, rest and return tomorrow.